Saturday, July 3, 2010
June 30th Israel Travel and Impression Report
We left the En Gev resort area on the Eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee this morning. It was already beginning to get hot. Yesterday it was 106 degree at the resort area. I was really looking forward to getting back to Jerusalem up in the Hills of Judah. We had several places that we were to make stops as we traveled south toward the city.
Our first stop the Cliffs of Arbel. These cliffs are easily visible from the Sea of Galilee as they look over the Western side of the lake just north of Tiberius. From these mammoth cliffs one can easily see the path of the Patriarchs highway as it moves northeast of Mt. Tabor past the Horns of Hittim and through the cliffs of Arbel onto the Plain of Gennesaret. As the highway continued it would move north past the Sea of Galilee and onto Hazor. On the far end of the Gennesaret plains is the biblical town of Magdala the hometown of Mary Magdalene. The southern end of the Arbel cliffs rise up from the valley below with fields of wheat and barley being cultivated up to the National Park line. The view from this point is stunning and encompasses much of the area Jesus did ministry while in Galilee.
Our next stop took us to the city ruins of Zippori (Sepphoris). The city was the first capital of Herod Antipas who was granted the Galilee to rule after his father’s death in 6AD. He eventually moved his capital to the city of Tiberius on the Western side of the lake. Zippori was the main headquarters for the Crusaders as they embarked upon their fatal journey to defeat at the hands of the Muslims. Before the Great Rebellion of 66-73AD, the Jewish residents of Zippori made a pact with the Romans which did spare their lives and their city as the rest of Israel including Jerusalem was destroyed. The Jews lived in the upper end of the city. The ruins at the lower end of the city provide us with beautiful mosaics. The city had a north south street (Cardo) as well as east west street called the Decomono. The streets where stone with walk ways under columned porticos on either side for pedestrians. Besides the huge mosaics that have been unearthed at this site, the most interesting to me personally were the indentions found in the road made by the wheels of chariots over heavy use.
After lunch in the Harod Valley near the spring where Gideon’s men drank, we moved onto the ruins of Beth-shan. Beth-shan was the Roman city of Scythopolis, the capital of the Decapolis and the only one on the east side of the Rift Valley. The ruins were from the Byzantine period again showing the main Cardo (north south) road and the Decomono. The Cardo was lined again by walk ways under porticoes. This city also possessed a sewer system with the road being crowned to move rain water to the sides. The main road proceeds north until it hits Tel Beth-shan the older part of the city under a huge Tel. On the Tel there are remains of 26 different cities that had been built and destroyed, including the city on the east side of the Tel that is from The United Monarchy time. This is the city where the Philistines took King Saul’s and Jonathan’s bodies and hung them for all to see. The city does sit in the Beth-shan Valley where many Israelites would see the bodies. Saul and Jonathan were killed on Mt. Gilboa and their bodies taken to Beth-shan and hung as a warning to all Israel. One of the final things we were able to see at this site was the latrines (men) that lined two walls of a great room. They were humorous at the least.
My impression for the day center once again around the reality that biblical events took place on these sites many years ago. They once again have added clarity and color to the account of both the Old and New Testament.
Picture One - View of the Genessaret Plain (Magada and north end of the Sea of Galilee from the Cliffs of Arbel
Picture Two - ibid
Picture Three - Chariot ruts in the road at Sepphoria
Picture Four - Theater at Beth Shan
Picture Five - View from the Theater with the OLD Tel Beth Shan in the background. This was the city where Saul and Jonathan's bodies were hung
June 29th Israel Travels and Impression
Of all the days I have spent here in Israel, today by far was my favorite. We visited many of the sites where Jesus did ministry around the Sea of Galilee. These places came alive from the vividness of Scripture connected to actually being at the site. My personal study into the life of Jesus particularly from Mark’s Gospel, was so real today. I am grateful for the year of study that I gave to walking through this Gospel.
Our first stop was at Kursi /Gergesa where a church had been erected memorializing the event of Mark 5:1-20, Jesus delivers the Demonic of a legion (6000) of demons. This is located on the east side of the Sea of Galilee just a few miles from the resort we have been staying at for the last three days. Just south of this church was erected there is the only steep embankment where the herd of pigs could have run down into the Sea of Galilee. Just a little ways further south, near ancient Hippo archeologists discovered ancient tombs. These tombs easily could have been the place where the demonic was living. This whole region is also called the Decapolis.
The ruin at biblical Chorazin was our next stop along our north east route around the Sea of Galilee. The ruins of this ancient city are referenced by Jesus in his curse upon what some call the Evangelical Triad and includes Chorazin, Capernaum, Bethsaida (Matt. 11:20-24; Luke 10:13-15). We were able to view a synagogue from the first century BC. Discovered in this synagogue was the place where the teacher would sit and preach his message to his audience. This place is called ‘the seat of Moses’. This would have been the type of seat that Jesus used whenever he taught in the synagogue. This is what he would have been teaching from in Mark 21-28, when he taught in the Capernaum synagogue and was interrupted by the demon possessed man. We were also able to see a covered miqvah from the same time period.
Our next spot to visit was a Church that was built to memorialize the place and event of the feeding of the five thousand. There isn’t any real consensus as to the exact location for this miracle of Jesus but it does give pilgrims and tourists a spot to at least commemorate this event. The spot selected was on the northwest side of the Sea of Galilee. After visiting the church, we took a walk down the hillside and stopped at a spot near a plowed field. In that location we had all types of soils that Jesus would have referred to when he taught the Parable of the Soils in Mark 4:1-25. A little farther down the hillside we stopped and talked about Jesus giving His disciples the Great Commission. Even though these are probably not the exact spots of these events it was good to be on the hillside of Galilee thinking through these biblical events and lessons from Jesus.
Capernaum was my favorite stop of the entire three weeks. My imagination took me back to the New Testament with numerous passages and stops in the old city. The demon possessed man in the synagogue of Mark 1:21-28 came to life when I was able to see the 1st century foundation of the synagogue. To think that this was the possible site of this event was moving. I was also moved by the ruins of the houses as I thought about the paralytic being lowered through the roof of the house in Mark 2:1-12 was incredibly visual. And to see the potential spot of Peter’s house and to image the events and discussions that took place with Jesus and His disciples. This stop was worth the trip for me.
Our final stop was really a moving stop with a boat ride across the Sea of Galilee from Tiberius to Ein Gev. The boat ride gave us a great view of both sides of the Sea as well as time to meditate on all that we saw and experience during the day.
My final thoughts of the day reflect back to Capernaum and the things that I felt and experienced while looking at the ruins. I have acquired much knowledge over the past two plus weeks. But I think I was challenged today to be more sensitive to God’s leading as Jesus was in everything that He did. I was also struck with a longing not just to know about Jesus but to really know Him more intimately. Jesus did not give His life by dying on the Cross so that I might possess eternal life. He died so that I might die to myself and live for Him. I long to have a more intimate daily filling of His Spirit so that I may please Him and enjoy Him. May I be covered in the dust of my Rabbi Jesus.
Picture One - The possible location of The Healing of the Demon at Gergesa where the pigs ran down the hill
Picture Two - Miqvah at Chorizim
Picture Three - Seat of Moses at Synagogue in Capernaum
Picture Four - Possibly Peter's House in Capernaum
Picture five - lower rocks show the 1st Century foundation of the Synagogue in Capernaum
June 28th Israel Travels and Impression Report
Our second day of the Galilean filed trip began with a stop at Tel Hazor the city along the most northern part of the Patriarchs highway. Hazor sits in on the west side of the Hulah Valley. From Hazor one could continue up the Rift Valley or go east to Damascus. Hazor was a key intersection in travel in the Old and New Testaments as well as the route invaders took to possess this vital real estate. Archeology has uncovered a gate named the ‘Solomonic Gate’ which by its name tells us that it is believed to date back to Solomon’s reign during the United Monarchy.
From Hazor we traveled north to Tel Dan up dear the beginning of Mt. Hermon. The springs at Tel Dan are one of three headwaters of the Upper Jordan River. Dan is the city (Leshem) that the tribe of Dan conquered in the hill country during the conquest (Joshua 19:47). They were tired of or unable to overthrow the Philistines so they moved to the hill country of upper Galilee and attacked this city and renamed it Dan. There are multiple gate systems that were discovered in this city. Dan is, along with Bethel one of the two cities that Jeroboam placed the golden calf when Solomon’s kingdom was divided. It seems that in the high place of the city an elaborate temple system was discovered with a huge altar and an additional building behind that has been speculated to be the place of the golden Calf.
It is easy to understand why this city was a desired place. The springs of Dan even in July shows a powerful flow of water that would be plenty to support a thriving city. The waters flow from the filtering of winter snow melt and rain that flows to the clay line of Mt. Hermon and out the Dan Springs.
Caesarea Philippi was our next destination. Another one of the headwaters flows out of the mountain at this spot. This is the location of Peter’s great confession in Mark 8:27-30. There is evidence that several Temples to false gods were established here during Jesus’ time. When Jesus asks the disciple ‘Who do people say I am?’ as well as ‘Who do you say I am? He had the temples in mind. It was this backdrop that provides us with the clear clarion confession of Peter.
Today at the foot of the Temple ruins flows from beneath the Banias Springs (second headwater of the Upper Jordan). In the time of Jesus the spring flowed from the cave where one temple had been built but due to earthquake activity the outlet for the spring is now at the foot of the hill. Our hike for the day was downhill to a location that lead us the Banias Falls. It was absolutely gorgeous, cool, and refreshing. It is hard to believe that in this hot, dry region of Israel we would find an incredible spring with such beauty and refreshment.
Our last part of today’s filed trip took us up into the Golan Heights where we were able to look over the ‘no man’s land’ into a United Nations Base and over into Syria. I was impressed once again by the vastness and yet the small nature of this part of the world. In a matter of hours you could be in Israel, Jordan, West Bank, or Syria. Yet, the whole time I have felt completely safe.
Picture One - Sea of Galilee from Ein Gev at night 25 yards from our cabin
Picture Two - Tiberius at night from across the Dead Sea
Picture Three - Springs at Dan
Picture Four - The Kings seat at the Gate of Dan
Picture Five - Possible high place of Golden Calf of Jeroboam
June 27th Israel Travels and Impressions
We left Jerusalem this morning early for a 4 day field trip into the northern regions of Israel. Over the next several days we will be covering Samaria, Jezreel Valley, Golan Heights, Upper and Lower Galilee. The later areas are what brings real excitement to my heart I will have the opportunity to place the biblical texts with the biblical place.
Our first stop along the way brought us to the Sharon Plane north of the Philistia Plain and south of the Carmel range. Along the shore of the Mediterranean Sea is a city called Caesarea Maritime. This was a city in which have a rich history and a historical connection to the NT. The city was built by Herod the Great in 22 BC. This is also the city that Peter visited and where he led the first Gentile to Christ (Acts 10). The city has had several major periods of growth including the Crusaders and during the Byzantine period. This city is also known in the Bible for being the place where Paul was speedily taken after his arrest. He was taken to Herod’s palace and help in prison for 2 years here in Caesarea. This would be the place where he received his hearing with Herod Antipas (Acts 23)
Leaving Caesarea we made our way through the Jokeneam Pass through the Carmel Range into the Jezreel Valley. The Jezreel Valley is a very fertile valley and is a major east west route as well as a North South route . We stopped on top of
Our next stop took us about 10 minutes down the road to a place called Megiddo. Today there is a Tel standing where the city once thrives. This city rests at the northern end of the Megiddo Pass through the Carmel Range. This valley pass and the city of Megiddo had been destroyed over 25 times. Ahab fortified the city in his day and had a palace located there. The Jezreel Valley is at the north end of the ancient city. Biblical prophecy tells us that one day the final battle of all time will take place at this location, the Battle of Armegeddon.
Leaving Megiddo, we made our way through Nazareth and on the Ein Gev on the eastern shore of the Sea of Galilee. This is our home for the next three nights. Around the northern end of this fresh water lake is where Jesus performed many miracles, called His disciples and taught many. In a few days we will spend time driving around the Sea of Galilee talking about these various accounts in the life of Jesus.
I am reminded as I sit here looking out across the Sea toward Tiberius. This is where Jesus called His first disciple to leave their nets and follow Him. These men were not the best of the best. But He believed that they could be like Him. Lord, let me follow as they did. “It is amazing the freedom we find from the things we leave behind.
Picture One - Caeserea Maritime Theater
Picture Two - Caeserea Maritime hippodrome
Picture Three - Me on Mount Carmel
Picture Four - Solomonic Gate at Megiddo
Picture Five - My first view of the Sea of Galilee
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